服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)廠(chang)加(jia)工(gong)(gong)服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)時，對服(fu)裝(zhuang)(zhuang)(zhuang)部件或成(cheng)衣作熱(re)處(chu)理的(de)工(gong)(gong)藝就(jiu)是(shi)熨燙。

　　作用

　　熨燙的(de)(de)作(zuo)用有：①平(ping)整，消(xiao)除(chu)織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)褶縐。②整緯，矯正織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)染整工藝中(zhong)形(xing)成(cheng)的(de)(de)緯向絲綹歪斜，使織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)復原，以利裁剪(jian)、縫制。③預(yu)伸縮，防止(zhi)衣(yi)片在縫制中(zhong)因受熱而產生伸縮現(xian)象(xiang)。④變形(xing)，利用織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)可塑性，將織(zhi)(zhi)物(wu)局部變形(xing)，促(cu)使衣(yi)片形(xing)態由(you)直(zhi)變弧(hu)或(huo)由(you)弧(hu)變直(zhi)，以便加工出合體的(de)(de)成(cheng)衣(yi)。⑤整形(xing)，對成(cheng)衣(yi)外形(xing)進行修(xiu)改整理，彌補工藝操作(zuo)中(zhong)的(de)(de)不足(zu)，使外觀平(ping)挺、貼服、不外翹。

　　條件

　　熨(yun)燙(tang)需(xu)具備溫(wen)(wen)度(du)、濕度(du)、壓(ya)力三方(fang)面的條(tiao)件(jian)。其中溫(wen)(wen)度(du)是關鍵。按各類(lei)織物(wu)(wu)的性能特點(dian)，使外加的輸熱度(du)與織物(wu)(wu)固有的耐熱度(du)要相適應。溫(wen)(wen)度(du)過高會損壞織物(wu)(wu)，過低則熨(yun)燙(tang)無效(xiao)。通常掌(zhang)握(wo)的熨(yun)燙(tang)溫(wen)(wen)度(du)：合成纖(xian)維90～160℃(其中錦綸(lun)90℃左(zuo)(zuo)右(you))，絲類(lei)120℃左(zuo)(zuo)右(you)，羊毛類(lei)160℃左(zuo)(zuo)右(you)(加濕布200℃左(zuo)(zuo)右(you))，棉布類(lei)180℃左(zuo)(zuo)右(you)，麻類(lei)190℃左(zuo)(zuo)右(you)。

　　熨(yun)燙壓力的大小(xiao)和時間長短(duan)，需根據(ju)衣料(liao)(liao)(liao)厚(hou)薄(bo)和原料(liao)(liao)(liao)固有性能而定。一般薄(bo)型質松的衣料(liao)(liao)(liao)所需壓力較(jiao)小(xiao)，熨(yun)燙時間也短(duan)，厚(hou)型質密衣料(liao)(liao)(liao)反(fan)之。織物不(bu)能直(zhi)接(jie)放在案面上熨(yun)燙，需墊薄(bo)毯，毛料(liao)(liao)(liao)產品還需上蓋濕布(bu)，以保持衣服整潔而不(bu)產生(sheng)反(fan)射光(guang)。

　　方法

　　熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)方法主要(yao)有(you)：①推、歸(gui)(gui)、拔(ba)(ba)。是(shi)加工(gong)(gong)毛料(liao)服裝的(de)(de)傳(chuan)統(tong)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)技法，能使(shi)(shi)平面(mian)(mian)狀衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)產生立體造型(xing)，以及服裝貼(tie)體平整的(de)(de)效(xiao)果(guo)。推與歸(gui)(gui)交互進(jin)(jin)(jin)行(xing)。推，是(shi)在衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)的(de)(de)胸、背、臀等(deng)(deng)(deng)部位(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)進(jin)(jin)(jin)行(xing)推燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)，使(shi)(shi)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物隆(long)起;歸(gui)(gui)，是(shi)根據人體凸起的(de)(de)邊緣(yuan)部位(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)，將(jiang)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)相(xiang)應(ying)部位(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)的(de)(de)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物進(jin)(jin)(jin)行(xing)聚(ju)集歸(gui)(gui)縮(suo)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)，使(shi)(shi)邊緣(yuan)長度(du)縮(suo)短，使(shi)(shi)凸起部位(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)效(xiao)果(guo)更顯著。拔(ba)(ba)，是(shi)對衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)需要(yao)延展的(de)(de)部分，將(jiang)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物拔(ba)(ba)開(伸(shen)長)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)，通常(chang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于衣(yi)(yi)(yi)片(pian)的(de)(de)腰部、袖(xiu)肘、領腳和褲片(pian)中襠(膝位(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei))等(deng)(deng)(deng)部位(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)。②磨燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)力多(duo)次往返(fan)重復(fu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。多(duo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于胸襯(chen)(chen)和胸顙頂(ding)端燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)服。③壓燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)力壓住(zhu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗(dou)(dou)進(jin)(jin)(jin)行(xing)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)，使(shi)(shi)織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物定型(xing)并燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)薄。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)襟、衣(yi)(yi)(yi)角等(deng)(deng)(deng)。④烘燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗(dou)(dou)懸(xuan)空不直(zhi)接(jie)接(jie)觸織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物，用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)傳(chuan)溫方式進(jin)(jin)(jin)行(xing)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)服裝的(de)(de)領、駁(bo)領、下擺等(deng)(deng)(deng)有(you)角部位(wei)(wei)(wei)(wei)，使(shi)(shi)之不外翹。⑤軋(ya)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。運(yun)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗(dou)(dou)外側，沿縫(feng)緝的(de)(de)圓(yuan)弧，借(jie)助鐵凳(deng)(deng)(燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)肩部、袖(xiu)窿的(de)(de)凳(deng)(deng)狀工(gong)(gong)具(ju))熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。常(chang)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)上(shang)衣(yi)(yi)(yi)的(de)(de)袖(xiu)窿弧、西褲的(de)(de)襠弧等(deng)(deng)(deng)。⑥吸燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。在織(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)(zhi)物上(shang)覆蓋濕布，高溫快速(su)輕浮熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)厚呢絨面(mian)(mian)的(de)(de)毛茸，以及消除水花(hua)、亮光等(deng)(deng)(deng)。⑦分燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。運(yun)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗(dou)(dou)尖部將(jiang)疊合的(de)(de)緝縫(feng)分開熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。⑧扣(kou)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。將(jiang)縫(feng)口或褶邊折轉(zhuan)扣(kou)住(zhu)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)，用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)貼(tie)袋縫(feng)口或各類褶邊等(deng)(deng)(deng)。⑨坐燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)斗(dou)(dou)前側將(jiang)緝縫(feng)一邊定向燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)倒。多(duo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于夾(jia)里褶縫(feng)口熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。⑩翻(fan)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。部件經反面(mian)(mian)縫(feng)緝后翻(fan)出于正面(mian)(mian)熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)于熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)袋蓋、衣(yi)(yi)(yi)領、門(men)襟、里襟等(deng)(deng)(deng)部件。粘(zhan)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)。刮(gua)漿熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)式粘(zhan)合襯(chen)(chen)(見服裝材料(liao))熨(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)，起粘(zhan)合作(zuo)用(yong)(yong)(yong)(yong)。

　　工具

　　熨(yun)(yun)斗是服(fu)裝熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)的(de)主(zhu)要工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)具。中(zhong)國漢代(dai)(dai)已(yi)有熨(yun)(yun)斗，又稱“火斗”，為(wei)裝炭(tan)火的(de)勺(shao)形物。近代(dai)(dai)熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)是烙鐵和(he)以炭(tan)為(wei)熱(re)源利用(yong)(yong)風箱催溫的(de)炭(tan)熨(yun)(yun)斗(俗稱炭(tan)火輪(lun))。20世紀50年(nian)代(dai)(dai)起較普遍使用(yong)(yong)電熨(yun)(yun)斗。50年(nian)代(dai)(dai)后期，中(zhong)國第一代(dai)(dai)“三(san)領機”研(yan)制成(cheng)功，用(yong)(yong)于襯衫領的(de)粘(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)合和(he)弧定型;英國發明(ming)以熱(re)壓(ya)方式(shi)粘(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)合可(ke)熔(rong)性襯布(bu)的(de)專用(yong)(yong)粘(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)合機。粘(zhan)(zhan)(zhan)合機已(yi)發展(zhan)成(cheng)能(neng)控時(shi)、控壓(ya)、控溫的(de)滾(gun)壓(ya)和(he)平(ping)壓(ya)式(shi)兩(liang)種(zhong)，成(cheng)為(wei)與縫制新工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)藝(yi)配套的(de)新型熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)具。對(dui)半成(cheng)品和(he)成(cheng)品的(de)熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)，已(yi)應用(yong)(yong)模壓(ya)、充氣、多工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)位(wei)回轉等蒸汽熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)機和(he)衣片歸拔機。一套西服(fu)蒸汽熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)設(she)備(bei)可(ke)完成(cheng)熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)衣袖、衣身(shen)、立(li)體(ti)整(zheng)形等12種(zhong)最終熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)和(he)分縫、歸拔等18種(zhong)中(zhong)間熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)，使產(chan)品干燥、燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)跡(ji)定型、無(wu)亮光。現代(dai)(dai)熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)新設(she)備(bei)、新工(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)(gong)藝(yi)，極大地(di)提高了(le)產(chan)品的(de)熨(yun)(yun)燙(tang)(tang)(tang)(tang)質量(liang)。

　　服(fu)裝廠在(zai)制成一件衣(yi)(yi)服(fu)，熨燙整理(li)衣(yi)(yi)服(fu)也(ye)是(shi)很重要的，一件經過熨燙和(he)未經過處理(li)的，差別是(shi)很大(da)的。